Zinfandel was long called California's "mystery grape". Although known to be of the species originating in Europe, its exact origin was hard to pin down. The promoter and wine-industry pioneer Hungarian Count Agoston Haraszthy (1812- 1869) popularized Zinfandel in California during Gold Rush days, claiming that he had personally brought the grape from his native Hungary. But historical records make clear that Zinfandel - under a variety of aliases - had been grown for as long as a generation before that - in New England, of all places. (There's more that could be said about the colorful Agoston Haraszthy, but I'll set that aside as story material for another time.) Fast forward to 1958 and Mike (Miljenko) Grgich, Croatian immigrant -turnedwinemaker.

Grgich says he left his homeland because, as a Croatian, he felt like a "third-class citizen" under Yugoslavia's communist regime. He arrived in the U.S. in 1958, via a circuitous route that took him first to West Germany (on a student fellowship), from there to Canada (where he learned English), and finally to California as winemaker for Souverain Cellars.

Arriving at Souverain, Mike says he immediately noticed in the Zinfandel vines surrounding the winery a strong resemblance to a Croatian vine called Plavac Mali, of which he had personal experience. While growing up in Croatia, it had been Mike's job to care for the family vineyard. The family plot contained a mix of many varietals, all of which he learned to identify - including Plavac Mali. Although Grgich told many people of his conviction that the grapes were one and the same, the political situation in his homeland at the time discouraged any investigation for years to come.

Meanwhile, after his stint at Souverain, Grgich spent the next several years working under some of California's most noted winemakers. At the historic Paris Blind Tasting of 1976, Mike's 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay won first place over every white wine in competition, including the esteemed white Burgundies. The international wine community was aghast at news of something so unthinkable. Needless to say, word spread like wildfire and Mike Grgich joined ranks with the world's great winemakers.

The following year, Grgich and Austin Hills of the Hills Bros. Coffee family joined forces to form Grgich Hills Estate in Napa Valley. Ground-breaking for the new winery took place on Independence Day, July 4th, 1977.

For the first time since his departure in 1954, Mike Grgich went back to Croatia in 1990. During a second visit in 1993, Grgich discovered a book by Dr. Peter Males describing different clones of Plavac Mali entitled “Zinfandel, Primitivo, and Plavac Mali”. In Male's opinion, they were the same variety.

Now more convinced than ever that the mysterious origins of California Zinfandel could be traced back to Croatia, Mike brought back to the U.S a copy of Dr. Males' book, and shared it with Dr. Carole Meredith, a distinguished grape scientist at U.C. Davis. In 1996 Carole journeyed to Croatia where she and a team of experts made the historic discovery that Zinfandel did indeed trace back to a Croatian grape, not Plavac Mali itself, but one called Crljenak (pronounced tsurlyen- knock), the parent grape of Plavac Mali.

As for Primitivo, a grape that has been popular in Italy's "boot heel" for well over a century, similar analysis confirmed that it and Zinfandel are identical twins. It's also been determined that both grapes arrived in their respective countries from Croatia. The grape's Italian migration is easy to imagine, the country being just a short hop across the Adriatic from Croatia. Mystery solved.

Although he became famous as a California winemaker, a part of Mike's 14 / Generation4Boomers.com / 2010 Tasting Notes What do Zinfandel and Winemaker Miljenko (Mike) Grgich have in common? Their Croatian Roots. By Carolyn Prusa Miljenko (Mike) Grgich heart remains in Croatia where in 1996 he opened a very successful modern winery, Grgic Vina, in Trstenik, on the Peljesac Peninsula that makes red wine from - you guessed it - Plavac Mali and a white wine called Posip. In earlier years, a small amount of Grgic wine was available in the U.S. Today, there is much demand for the small production in Croatia, leaving nothing for export outside the country.

My husband and I had the good fortune to visit Grgic Vina a couple years ago and can attest to the excellent quality of its Plavac Mali as well as the beautiful countryside and vineyards from where it comes. We have on many occasions been to Grgich Hills Estate in Napa Valley, most recently this past October. The Napa property remains family owned, making estate-bottled wine from 336 vineyard acres, all certified organic and using Biodynamic farming techniques. I found the wines to be impeccable, and the warm hospitality shown us by Mike Grgich, who happened to be on the premises, delightful.

According to the winery website, for many years Mike has worked closely with Roots of Peace, an organization dedicated to eradicating mine fields and returning land to productive agricultural use. Mike accompanied Roots of Peace Founder/President Heidi Kuhn to Dragalic, Croatia, to inspect an area de-mined with money donated by Grgich Hills, the U.S. State Department, and the United Nations. In 2006 Grgich established the Miljenko “Mike” Grgich Scholarship for Professional Wine Studies at the Culinary Institute of America to help the next generation achieve their own dreams.

Sidebar: Grgich Hills Estate Zinfandel 1996
Grown at the Grgich estate vineyard in Calistoga, at the northern tip of Napa Valley, from Zinfandel grapes certified organic and Biodynamic®. The wine's classic Zinfandel aromas and flavors of strawberries and raspberries are backed by hints of allspice and black pepper. Produced in an elegant 'claret' style, the wine has appealing fruit, soft tannins and medium body. Look for it at fine wine shops in the Reno/Sparks area.

Zinfandel & Food Pairing Tips:
Zinfandel with its ripe berry fruit, subtle oak and mild tannins can taste delicious with seafood, meats and poultry, depending on the preparation. Zinfandel pairs well with grilled or barbecued foods. Barbecue sauces should have a little vinegar added to balance the sweetness and spice.