by Carolyn Prusa CWE
Good Taste - Wine Notes
Over the past 50 years, the growing-season temperatures in 27 major wine regions around the world warmed by an average of 1.3 degrees Celsius, according to a study by Greg Jones, research climatologist and expert in the field of viticulture at Southern Oregon University.
It’s been said that wine is the canary in the climate change coal mine. Even slight climate changes can have big implications on quality wine.
Tempting as it is to speculate about vineyards in regions of the world previously deemed unsuitable, think about this: In twenty years’ time will the great terroir-driven wines - such as German Riesling or Burgundy - still retain the characteristics marking them as great wines?
Climate science strongly suggests that major changes may be in order. In a Los Angeles Times article, French climatologist Bernard Seguin says that each one degree increase of temperature in France is equivalent to moving 200 kilometers (124 miles) north. If current warming predictions hold true, according to Seguin by the end of the century the north coast of France will be experiencing weather that today is common for the south of France.
Alarmist or not, the wine industry obviously believes the threat of global climate change is too great to be ignored. From California to Spain to Australia – and points in between – conferences, speeches and seminars are taking place on how to best deal with long-term effects of climate change.
If there’s still serious debate that the earth is warming, I haven’t heard it. In all fairness, there is discussion as to how much and to what extent human activity is responsible. While a host of top climatologists and environmentalists claim greenhouse gas emissions are the main culprit – much of it likely do to human causes, others believe that what we are experiencing is simply part of the earth’s natural climate cycle.
Spurred on by all the climate buzz, I decided to check in with some wine industry friends for their thoughts on the subject.
"I haven’t seen enough evidence that ozone is effecting climatic changes,” says Robert Smerling, Renwood Winery Chairman/CEO. “I do believe this planet has gone through many climate changes in the last 1000 years, by natural and evolutionary causes. Take Greenland, the Vikings named it because it was green. Today it’s barren, frozen over by ice… It’s nice to speculate red varietals could be grown in areas that today only support whites. If I truly believed these events would occur in our lifetime, I’d buy land in Reno and start a vineyard.”
Winemaker Don Brady &
owner Robert Hall
In Paso Robles, Robert Hall winemaker Don Brady says, “I’m concerned about changes in our weather patterns. When the temperature gets in the triple digits, vines simply shut down and go into survival mode. Global warming is a really complex issue,” Brady admitted. “Nobody knows for sure what it will bring.”
Cool climate regions such as the Mosel Valley of Germany have historically been at the margins of suitability, with less-than-ideal vintages far outnumbering the best ones. On that score, Brian Harlan, National Sales Manager for Loosen Bros. USA, says “If the Mosel Valley (of Germany) is any indication, global warming has been in effect since 1988. Historically, this 50-degree-north-latitude valley has been a frightfully cool, damp place to grow vines… However, the pattern has gone completely haywire since the 1988 vintage… There have only been a handful of “challenging” vintages… The norm now is for sunny vintages, riper fruit.” German Riesling lovers are the winners in the short run, Harlan adds. “But such a string of superior vintages does provide at least anecdotal evidence that global warming is manifesting itself in Germany.”
Phillip Lolonis, Lolonis Vineyards Vice President/General Manager, chooses his words carefully: “The Lolonis family has been growing grapes in Redwood Valley, Mendocino for 86 years. Farming organically creates a more proactive farming regimen. In the past Vineyard General Manager Al Tollini (3rd generation Redwood Valley grower) formed a farming process based on past years, comparing them to most recent ones. For three years this has not worked well. Weather patterns have been nowhere near the past 40 years. We have to be ready for anything“.
As increasing evidence points to human impact on our climate, practical changes are underway to make wineries more earth-friendly. For example, in Campania, Italy, Feudi di San Gregorio’s vineyards are equipped with solar-powered meteorological stations gathering data continuously. By closely monitoring the environment, Feudi is able to practice eco-compatible viticulture.
Rodney Strong, Honig, Cline Cellars, Cuvaison, Far Niente and Nickel & Nickel are among the growing list of California wineries jumping on the solar power bandwagon. And, wineries such as Tablas Creek, J Winery, Delicato San Bernabe Vineyard and Clay Station, that have converted to no-till organic farming methods rather than disrupt the soil and release stored carbon into the air as carbon dioxide, are no longer a novelty.
Forward-thinking Torres, a Spanish family winery with properties in Spain, California and Chile, is buying land in higher, cooler attitudes to protect the business for the next generation.
Carbon Neutral Wineries
For many of the world’s vintners, ‘Carbon Neutral’ is now the name of the game.
In Mendocino County, Parducci is the first U.S. winery to be certified ‘Carbon Neutral’. The winery partnered with Climate Action Registry to calculate emissions of greenhouse gases, then took measures to mitigate and offset those emissions. The winery uses tree-free paper and soy-based inks for its printed materials, chlorine-free cardboard boxes for shipping and storage, and biodiesel fuel for its tractors. Solar panels and wind power provide 100 percent of its energy needs. The vineyards are farmed organically/biodynamically, and reduce/re-use programs include on-site composting, water recycling and even methane and biogas capture from livestock. Finally, to offset the CO2 produced by fermentation, a fee is paid to an organization that plants trees that will pull the same amount from the air.
Although carbon neutrality is still new to the wine world, things are changing quickly.
Across the world, Elderton was the first winery in Australia to gain 'Carbon Neutral' accreditation. The Barossa Valley winery measures all the carbons it emits through electricity usage; plane and road transportation are measured and then offset by planting a set number of trees. In 2007, Australia-based Trees for Life, a nonprofit carbon merchant, planted more than 4,000 trees to offset Elderton’s carbon emissions.
Elderton is turning to biodynamic farming techniques in the certified organic vineyards. One-hundred percent of the winery’s water use is recycled to a quality level so that it can be used back on the vineyard, and solar power is its electricity source.
In Chile, tackling environmental issues has always been a key part of the Cono Sur Winery’s philosophy. A pioneer in that country of organic production and integrated pest management, Cono Sur is now working with a carbon offset provider to neutralize the GHG emissions in the shipping of its products.
Oregon and California each signed legislation into law last year designed to bring sweeping, green-driven changes to the states’ industries. Oregon wineries were quick to get on board with their state’s new initiative, pledging to be carbon neutral by 2010.
French vintners are also getting serious about carbon neutrality. Producers in Champagne have outlined a plan to reduce emissions 25 percent by 2020, and Bordeaux producers are working on a similar plan.
Backsberg Estate became the first winery in South Africa to go carbon neutral. Backsberg uses biofuels for its farm equipment and has set aside part of its land as a nature preserve. “Care for the environment means care and concern for succeeding generations,” says Backsberg proprietor Michael Back. “It is our duty to understand and recognize potential threats, and to mitigate against them for the benefit of the next generation.”