By Dave Preston
Guru of the Goodlife™
Top Bordeaux, critically acclaimed and sought after by a growing horde of wealthy collectors around the world, has reached the point where most of the wines ranked as "first growth" in the Medoc Classification of 1855 are no longer practical options for many of us who are looking for an adventure in wine.
And even among the less ethereal labels, some might argue that the connection between quality and value has become all but lost amid the great supply- and-demand rush.
At the lower end of the budget scale, there are thousands of less sought-after labels in relatively affordable price ranges. But there's a bewildering array of minor and "satellite" appellations outside the desirable Medoc on the Left Bank of the Gironde river and its estuaries, and St.-Emilion and Pomerol on the Right Bank, and no handy classification system to sort it out.
We know that Bordeaux reds are a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, mostly, with small lots of Petite Verdot, Malbec and other varieties permitted. But the exact composition, vineyard age, terroir and just about everything else varies from property to property. It's no surprise that, while the high-end "cult" wines of Bordeaux fly off the shelves at inflated prices, much of the region's wine languishes unsold.
Part of the adventure is the journey to find great wine at great prices. For instance, Chateau Malbec 2005 Bordeaux, available locally for $12.99, comes from a property that bears the name of one of the minor Bordeaux grapes, but curiously the wine apparently contains no Malbec. It's a blend of 60 percent Merlot and 40 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, grown and estatebottled in Bordeaux' Entre- Deux-Mers ("Between two seas") region, so called because it lies on a low plain between the Dordogne and Garonne rivers.
Entre-Deux- Mers is generally dismissed as the source of unexciting wines, but I can't complain about this one. Perhaps lifted by the overall quality of the fine 2005 vintage, it offers a good, clear example of simple Bordeaux in its traditional style.
Tasting Notes:
CHATEAU MALBEC 2005 BORDEAUX ($12.99)
Very dark ruby, almost black at the center, with scarlet glints against the light. Black fruit and cedar aromas add a touch of characteristic Bordeaux "lead pencil" in the flavor; plenty of acidity, and a curtain of marked but palatable tannins drops in the finish. A good benchmark.
FOOD MATCH:
My idea of a perfect match with Bordeaux is lamb chops, pan-seared with garlic and rosemary. Very medium rare beef is another classic pairing.(even Tartar)
WHEN TO DRINK: Quite drinkable now with a good redmeat match, but even a modest Bordeaux like this may benefit from a few years' cellaring.
(Dave Preston has written about food and wine for over 25 years. He and Reno Cardiologist Kosta Arger have a healthy cooking TV show called Dr. Kosta and Dave, about great food, good wine and how to cook healthy using simple foods. Dave is feature writer for several regional publications and is heard on radio throughout northern Nevada.)