New Wines From Forgotten Grapes And Previously Uncharted Regions
by Carolyn Prusa CWE
It's been said that drinking the same wine all the time is like reading only one page of a book…. You'll never know what you've been missing. Which brings me, conveniently, to the subject of Spanish wine.
When was the last time you went shopping for wine and came home with something from Spain? Browsing through the wine shops, it would appear that most of the world's wine is being made from a handful of varietals - Chardonnay, Cabernet, Sauvignon Blanc and the like. Meanwhile, in Spain there is a renewed focus on the country's native varietals.
Long known for its earth-driven Riojas and classic Sherry, especially interesting is Spain's new style of wine produced from a host of forgotten and underappreciated indigenous grapes. Everything from light crisp Albarino in northern Galicia to the deeply colored Monastrell across the country in Jumilla, these Spanish wines offer unique taste sensations. In addition, they pair exceptionally well with food.
So, if you find you've been gravitating to the same old labels far too long, turn the page, so to speak. Consider the exciting wines from emerging regions of Spain.
Take Priorat, for example. This craggy, inaccessible wine-growing corner of northeastern Spain was barely heard of in the early 1990s. Today, the tiny region has emerged on the international scene. The unique terroir of Priorat with its terraced vineyards, very dry climate and soil gives a distinctive characteristic to its wines.
Alvaro Palacios Les Terrasses, Priorat - At the forefront of Priorat's delicious evolution is Alvaro Palacios. Born into one of Rioja's respected wine families, Alvaro studied enology in Bordeaux while working at Chateau Petrus. He credits his tenure at Petrus for much of his winemaking philosophy and for showing him “the importance of great wines”. Rather than return to the family domain in the Rioja, Alvaro was drawn to Priorat. Les Terrasses is a blend of approximately 30 percent Garnacha, 60 percent Carinena and 10 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine has ripe fresh flavors of black cherries, blackberries and plums with coffee accents and a long and fruity finish.
Scala Dei Negre, Priorat - While the Priorat hillsides produce mostly expensive wines, a reasonably priced favorite is from the monastery-turned-winery, Scala Dei. In the Catalan language the word 'Priorat' means 'priory'. Scala Dei, meanwhile, means ladder to God. The priory of Scala Dei was established in 1163 as the first monastery on the Iberian Peninsula and its monks planted the first grapes. Negre is made entirely from Garnacha grapes grown in the estate´s own vineyards. This red wine is fruity and lightly structured. Think of a beautiful summer salad with grilled salmon and a hunk of rustic bread.
On to Jumilla. This high altitude mountain valley 150 miles southeast of Madrid has become another region of note and is especially regarded for its Old Vine Monastrell. During the Phylloxera epidemic of the late 1800s, Jumilla was one of the few places spared as nearly everywhere else on the globe vineyards were devastated. (Phylloxera is a microscopic root-eating aphid native to North America that in the late 19th century made its way to Europe and from there to many other wine regions around the world, devastating vineyards. It was not until growers began replanting vineyards with vines grafted to resistant American rootstocks that the world's wine industries were revived. To this day, grafting remains the practice.)
Panarroz Jumilla - An amazing value, Panarroz is a blend of Monastrell, Garnacha, and Syrah. Big and spicy, Panarroz reveals loads of depth. It's the perfect wine for grilled meats and vegetables.
We go next to the region of Tierra de Castilla near the historic city of Toledo in the heart of Spain. Akin to the French 'Vin de Pays' designation, Tierra de Castilla winemakers are allowed more flexibility (read creativity) regarding their wine production than are wine regions regulated under Spain's highly restrictive Denominación de Origen (DO) system.
Tapena Verdejo, Tierra de Castilla - Verdejo (Ver- DAY-ho) is a nearly forgotten white wine grape that has been described as Spain's answer to Sauvignon Blanc. Tapena Verdejo is beautifully balanced and crisp with bright stone fruit flavors and a hint of minerality. It is a food-friendly wine that pairs very well with many dishes. Try it with grilled salmon, seared scallops, lemon chicken or a fresh summer salad.
Then there's Rías Baixas (REE-ez BUY-shez), a lowland coastal region within the broader region of Galicia. Bordering on Portugal near the Atlantic Ocean, everything about Galicia - the land, the climate, and its people - is said to more resemble Scotland than the rest of Spain. In fact, descendants of the Celts settled the area in the 11th century B.C. In Rías Baixas some of Spain's most exciting whites are produced from the Albariño grape variety. Albariño now accounts for 90 percent of all plantings in the vineyards of Rías Baixas. Even so, as recently as ten years ago most wine drinkers had never heard of the region or its wine.
Morgadio Albarino, Rías Baixas - Morgadio is a pioneer of Albarino wines in the U.S. The wine from this 30-hectare property remains one of the best. Albarino is a racy, refreshing wine considered one of the best matches in the world for seafood.
Lastly, we go to Ribero del Duero. On Spain's northern plateau along the Duero River, Ribero del Duero is where some of the country's most sought-after (that means expensive) red wines are produced using the Tempranillo grape.
Alejandro Fernandez Tinto Pesquera, Ribera del Duero - Like many great winemakers, Alejandro Fernández pursued other careers before the dream of running his own bodega was realized. He first worked as a carpenter, then as a salesman, also as a designer of agricultural machinery. During this time, however, he grew grapes on his own small vineyard and made wine for his own consumption. In 1972 Alejandro founded his modest bodega outside the town of Pesquera de Duero. By the late 1980s, his wine had become one of the most sought-after in all of Spain. Made exclusively from the Tempranillo variety, Tinto Pesquera is aged a minimum of 18 months in oak. It offers layers of ripe black fruits, mineral notes and outstanding depth. This wine will evolve for several years.
Carolyn Prusa is a Certified Wine Educator, employed by Southern Wine and Spirits of Nevada; she also teaches wine and beverage courses for Truckee